Ragusa Dubrovnik
Adriatic gem
Described by Lord Byron as the ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’ and by George Bernard Shaw as ‘Paradise on earth’, Dubrovnik is truly something special. And the flattery is more than justified – this one-time city state lies perfectly preserved within its sturdy old walls, a pedestrianised oasis spectacularly framed by rugged limestone cliffs on one flank and by the sparkling Adriatic Sea on the other. Compact and easily navigable on foot, the most interesting parts of this remarkable Croatian gem can be covered in a day on your cruise travel.
Getting around
Since the whole of Dubrovnik’s old town is pedestrianised, getting around never proves a problem. To become orientated, embark on a circuit of the old walls – although you should take it easy on very hot days because those steep inclines can soon take it out of you. Any visitors with an interest in Dubrovnik’s history should take advantage of one of the audio sets that are available at the wall entry points and provide a commentary to help illuminate all the most interesting sights en route. The best time for walking the walls is in the late afternoon when the temperature starts to drop and a peachy glow descends over the orange roof tiles of the old town.
Must see
Dubrovnik manages to pack an impressive amount of sights into its compact historic core. The main street, the Stradun or Placa, is home to the Franciscan Monastery, which boasts cool cloisters, an intriguing museum and Europe’s oldest pharmacy. At the other end of the Stradun is the Sponza Palace, with its grand main hall, and the Rector’s Palace – once home to the figurehead of the ancient city state of Ragusa. A museum illuminates Dubrovnik’s history in the rector’s quarters and visitors enjoy regular performances in its atrium. Dubrovnik’s cathedral is also worthy of a visit – the stunning baroque structure is said to have been built originally by Richard the Lionheart. And anyone with a love of ecclesiastical buildings really shouldn’t miss the Dominican Monastery and the Church of St Blaise – the latter of which is dedicated to Dubrovnik’s saint, who is depicted there holding onto an old image of the city.
Old shipping town
The Stradun offers just a sprinkling of stores, but be sure to delve south down the little lanes that break seawards. Here you will find some boutiques, jewellers (where the silver is particularly good) and small art shops where local talent is on display. Many of these stores are housed in historic old buildings that make shopping in Dubrovnik a magical experience. A one-stop souvenir shop is Dubrovnik House situated on Svetog Dominika – a multi-level oasis that overflows with local handicrafts and artwork. They also sell first rate Croatian truffles (black and white) as well as Croatian wine – the robust Dingac red is an outstanding variety that is rarely enjoyed abroad due to limited production.
An Adriatic lunch
A flurry of tourist-oriented restaurants line narrow Prijeko, but a more local experience awaits at Kamenice on Gunduliceva, a modest restaurant specialising in seafood with hearty portions and reasonable prices. The seafood risottos and oysters are well recommended, especially washed down with a bottle of Croatian white wine. A short stroll away is Lokanda Peskarija, a bar/café/restaurant also offering affordable seafood in a lovely setting, with views of the old port from outside.
Island escape
If you want to really get away from it all on your holiday cruises, head to the old port and nip over on one of the shuttle boats to the nearby island of Lokrum. Here there is little to do bar ramble around the old ruins of a Napoleonic-era fortress and the abandoned monastery, swim in the quiet coves and then enjoy the views of the old town as you ease back to Dubrovnik.
Sundowner
Dubrovnik has lots of venues for enjoying an ice-cold Karlovacko (the excellent local beer) or coffee. To lap up the buzz, snare a prized outdoor table at the popular Festival Café on the Stradun and watch the early evening promenade. For something more special, head through the backstreets to Buza. The range of drinks is a bit limited but the bar lies outside the city walls, right on the rocks, where you can feel the sea breeze on your skin and the salt in the air – and the sunsets are as expansive as they are unforgettable.
About the Author
“The Republic of Ragusa” Eundel’s photos around Dubrovnik, Croatia (st ignatius altars dubrovnik)